Lake Como return

We flew Bristol to Milan and I’d arranged (though the airline) for a taxi to collect us. Why? Because last time we hired a car and it was a bloody nightmare! You sit on the wrong side of the car, with the gear stick in the wrong hand, and you drive on the wrong side of the road, and Italians are impatient drivers - I found the whole thing so stressful. Poor O (my 24 year old son) - he’s a very laid back chap, but he was frightened on our journey to Menaggio! We didn’t need the car when we were there - not until it was time to go to our next destination. I decided to let O drive, even though he probably wasn’t insured - it was safer, but there was no way I’d hire a car again in Europe! (Maybe in Malta - I believe they drive on the right side there!)

Anyway, we arrived in Menaggio without the high blood pressure! We’d stayed at Casa Mic & Tig - the Airbnb apartment in the same building as the Grand Hotel Victoria - last time. Two bedrooms, two bathrooms but the selling point is the view - you open the shutters in the lounge to see the most amazing view over the lake. We went straight out to our favourite bar - to the left of the entrance, right by the lake, with beautiful greenery and pink flowers. We returned to this bar several times during our stay! By the time we’d got ready to go out for dinner it had got very grey and as we got to the front door, the heavens opened. We ran into the hotel bar, which we’d never visited before. It’s a rather posh hotel, but the staff were friendly and it was a great spot to watch what had now turned into a thunderstorm. So much lightening! And torrential rain! We were slightly shocked at the price of the Aperol, but pleasantly surprised at what came with it - nuts, crisps, and several beautiful nibbles including some sushi. It was a very nice start to our first evening in Italy and we had another drink since it was still raining. Thankfully for my bank balance, the rain stopped and we went in search of dinner. We came across Ristorante Dal Tato - past the ferry port. We hadn’t booked, but we were led to what must be the best table in the house - with the most amazing view! We could feel the other guests watching us - were they thinking we were famous?! Luckily the food was as good as the view, and I’d have happily gone there another night.

Sunday was quite a lazy day. It was boiling hot and we felt tired, so what better way to spend it than at our favourite bar. We went for a drink. Then we decided to have lunch. Then we had another drink. We strolled around the town, and then later in the evening we walked along the promenade to Ristorante La Grolla Menaggio. Now this place we had booked. We’d been there the last time and had enjoyed an exquisite meal. We were given a lake view table, and had a very pleasant evening - good food, a delicious bottle of sauvignon blanc - no idea what one, but we had to have 2, it was so good.

Monday we mooched around the shops and I had my new favourite soft drink - lemon soda. So refreshing. We had booked to hire a speed boat this afternoon, but the forecast wasn’t good, so it was postponed. There was a brief thunderstorm, but nothing much, so we’d probably have been fine on the boat, but better to be safe than sorry. We hired a taxi to take us to Villa Carlotta. Beautiful gardens, on the side of a lake, and some nice statues. For our dinner we went to Albergo Ristorante.. Delicious pasta starters, followed by filetto trota salmonata for me, and O had entrecote con burro all’aglio. Even with Aperols and wine, the price was under 95 euros!

Tuesday and speedboat time! O loves a speedboat. He loves speed. Not only that but we were upgraded which was a nice surprise. It was so hot again, but out on the lake we had a breeze which was very welcome. I started worrying about how I’d get off the damn boat. The last time I nearly fell in because my right knee let me down. The knee’s been replaced since then, but it’s not great and I don’t trust it, and my left knee is due to be replaced! How am I going to climb up onto the leather bench seat, then over the bar of the boat, onto a floating platform?! Thanks to O and the boat man, I did it, although my feet were bare and there was no way I could balance to put my sandals on when on the moving platform. By the time I’d got to the path my feet were burned! The floor was so hot!! Probably better than losing my balance and falling in the water though. Although it would have felt refreshing, how embarrassed I would have been!! We then had to pick up our luggage and get the boat over to Varenna. This is where we were staying for the next 3 nights. Alberto met us and took us to our apartment - close to where we disembarked, but up a cobbled hill and then a lot of stairs - did I realise there was no lift when I booked? It was only one bedroom (huge and very comfy bed), but there was a sofa bed which O said was comfy. And we had air conditioning! What a lovely surprise and really needed because it was so hot.

We later walked along the edge of the lake and I remember being surprised when I looked left up a street at the very steep steps - I’d forgotten how hilly this place is! We walked to a wonderful bar - the setting is absolutely perfect. Varenna Caffè Bistrot. Aperols were ordered and nibbles were delivered - very tasty. We had dinner there too. And the stroll back to the apartment is just so beautiful.

Wednesday we took the boat to Bellagio and walked to I Giardini di Villa Melzi - huge gardens, well worth visiting. Absolutely stunning. We then walked up very steep steps with shops either side, and masses of tourists, to another favourite restaurant - Torre del Gusto Bellagio - can you tell we love our food? One of the best meals of the holiday followed. Amazing raw beef, parmesan and cherry tomatoes, followed by prawn pasta. The restaurant is always packed so get there early or better still, book! We walked round to the viewpoint - not sure it was worth it to be honest. It was just so hot and I found it hard going. There are no loos there but there is a restaurant and the manager kindly let us use their facilities even though they wouldn’t allow us to just have a drink! You had to eat there. We then tested out a couple of bars. A couple purely because we couldn’t get into the one we wanted to start with - the lake side seating area of the Hotel Excelsior Splendide. It was worth the wait until a very noisy family turned up. Thankfully they weren’t there too long. We ate at a small restaurant called Bar La Cambusa back near where we were staying - it didn’t look much but the (basic) food was tasty.

Thursday was a Varenna day. We wanted to return to some lovely gardens: Villa Monastero, where we also had a delicious light lunch although I got annoyed with the waiter because he asked us to pay twice before we had finished eating - even before we had got the food in the place! I stood my ground and said no! Then we went to the gardens in the Hotel Royal Victoria. Beautiful place but so many people taking photos of themselves. I mean really! No one’s as beautiful as the gardens and views of this place. But these people were even queuing to take selfies in particular places. Absolutely ridiculous.

We then went to the small art gallery near Caffè Bistrot called the Studio del Arte. The lady there paints watercolours and I had bought one of her pieces last time. I wanted another - landscape this time. I bought 2! And O bought a couple of black and white works.

In the evening we went to La Veranda dei Pescatori. Prosecco on arrival, and then a free taster - but neither of us were keen, and there was a lot of it! The staff were lovely. The menu was quite different. Austrian or German at a guess. For starters we had a board of meats and cheese - there was so much food. Too much actually; enough for 4 people! Then O had beef fillet with hot cheese and I had lake fish and leeks, It was a hot but windy night and we were inside. The heat got to me and when we’d finished eating we asked to sit outside in the wind. It was blowy but so refreshing! The restaurant does offer a shuttle bus because it’s quite a walk and it’s up hill, but we didn’t realise this until later!

Then it was Friday. Time to go home. Breakfast at Bar La Cambusa then a beer outside Hotel Olivedo until our taxi turned up to take us to the airport.

Had a great holiday. If I was to return I’d go early June, or maybe even end May. But I think next time I’d try one of the other lakes - perhaps where there are nice beaches. Lake Como has spots where you can swim but they’re often really tiny and busy, or very sloped. If you want great views, lovely gardens to visit, and to while away time in bars and eat tasty food, then Lake Como cannot be beaten. Just bear in mind some of the towns are VERY steep!